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Thursday, September 15, 2005

Last Taxi in Paris - Thalys to Brussels

Around 8.30am I decided to call for a taxi to take me to Gare du Nord Station - giving me plenty of time to arrive. Oddly enough the voice speaks to me in French - odd since it's the English speaking operator line. I do my "parlez vous anglais?" bit to which he replies in the affirmative. I give him my address, he checks and comes back with "I have no taxi available". "Okay" I cheerily ask "What about at 9?". "No", he quickly responds "we don't do bookings." And with that, there went the idea of having a taxi pick me up. I suppose it might have something to do with that egalitarian thing - can't have anyone gaining an advantage.

It was now, onto plan B (the one recommended by guide books), go to a taxi rank. Since the closest (that I knew of) was on Place Maubert, I decided to try my luck. The paths are quite level and mostly intact, and there aren't too many "puddles" to wheel around - and that dear readers, is always a good thing.

At the rank there were already 3 people waiting, and the Place Maubert market was up and running again. I resisted temptation - easily done when encumbered by luggage.

It's a haphazard thing, you wait until a taxi decides it wants to stop - there's a rough notion of a queue, but that doesn't stop anyone from nabbing a taxi that you didn't quite see. One taxi briefly stopped to see if I was going to the airport - since I wasn't, he was off. A man asked me in Spanish how long I'd waited, so naturally, I answered him in French. He then relayed the info onto his companions. Make of that what you will.

A 15 minute wait or so and I'm in the cab going to the station. This driver seems to take the more direct root - the resulting fare proof. With a bon voyage, I enter the station. And might I add, I never got to see this side of it, but it's quite an attractive structure - something that shouldn't really be pissed upon.

The Train Trip
From Gare de Nord to Bruxelles-Midi on the Thalys - travel time, a speedy 1 hour 25 minutes. The trains are unmissable in their deep red livery and have certainly been a success. Air France ceased flying the Paris-Brussels route in 2001 due to low passenger numbers - 450 daily air passengers compared to 13700 daily Thalys passengers.

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Inside you'll find yourself cocooned in shades of silver and red.

One part of traveling in first class is that you are offered a complimentary breakfast. Oh dear.
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Breakfast consisted of coffee (served with one of those capsules of milk, this one was called "Tastes like fresh milk" so I freaking well hope so! ), water, grapes and pastry of choice. The grapes as you might be able to tell from the second photo looked half rotten - totally unappealing. The pineapple tart was quite nice and the stewards did come around and insist I take another of their baked delights.

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This time it was some kind of ham and cheese brioche. It was tasty enough.

One extra bonus offered to first class passengers is a taxi service. Excellent. After the wait at Paris, this offer was too good to pass up. Basically you hop off the train and a driver will be waiting to take you away - no queues! You just fill in the card on board and hand it in to the stewards and they did the rest. Why couldn't Eurostar do this?

It all panned out on arrival - the taxi controller efficiently passed me off to a driver who seemed to be in quite a hurry to get to his taxi, even taking a bag so we'd go a little quicker. He was a fairly friendly chap who seemed to know where we were going but there was something missing. No taxi meter.

We had to do a bit of a round the block thing as we neared the accommodation due to the one way streets but we arrived fairly speedily. How much for the trip? He smiled, €25. I'm going to have to watch out for that smile in the future.

As I stood at the door of the B&B, I saw a sign that was attached on the neighbouring building, which made me recoil in disgust and laugh out loud. I hope this isn't a foreshadowing of things to come.

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I just really really really hope they obey the sign.

Au Revoir, Paris

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It's been a busy but too short 3 days in Paris and it's another early start - caused more by affected sleep patterns than real need. This morning I have breakfast on the balcony (it's a delicious muesli) and for the last time watch the city slowly come to light...

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Wednesday, September 14, 2005

Paris - Day 3

Having studied the Paris maps I make a startling discovery. It seems that the Jardin des Plantes stop on the batobus is very near the Gare d'Austerlitz - what this means is a more easy trip to get the europass validated. After my London experience, traveling on the metro doesn't really appeal to me.

Once again it's an early start - yes, it's probably still jet lag - and another trip to Notre Dame. Armed with the zoom lens this visit is about getting some shots of the details. Even with a 300mm lens some of the higher gargoyles remain out of reach.

I'm finding there's a different mindset to shooting digital versus film. At current numbers, so far on this trip I've probably taken over a thousand shots, something that just wouldn't be feasible with film. It's a learning exercise at the moment. Maybe this is making me more lazy in my approach - the proof will be in the printing, but that is a long way off.

In the garden behind Notre Dame there's a statue that makes me do a double take
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Is he giving me the finger?

I don't know if you can tell from the photos but work is currently taking place on the exterior of the Church. The work started in 1991 was supposed to take 10 years - though the main facade is clear, scaffolding is currently around the side of the North Tower. This is a photo of the yard where the some of the items for repair are kept.
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On the Seine side the level of damage is quite severe - it almost looks like the faces of the gargoyles have been eaten away.
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Here's a little architectural lesson - the gargoyles aren't those hideous faced things, the gargoyles are in fact the ones that are pointing straight out, they are the water spouts. The correct name for the hideous faced statues are chimères.

This morning I have breakfast at a cafe called L'Esmeralda around the rear of Notre Dame. This is a more reasonably priced €6.10 for which you get, a glass of orange juice, 2 slices of toast, jam, butter and a coffee of your choice.
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I also take the opportunity to clear the SD cards over breakfast - using the Ipod is proving to be such a neat solution.
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After breakfast I hop on board the batobus again and make my way to the Jardin des Plantes stop. On board a couple of old dears are taking pictures of themselves with Notre Dame as a backdrop. While I'm standing taking pictures of Notre Dame, one of the old dears comes up to me and asks "Would you like me to take a picture of you?" her words beginning to trail even before she finished the sentence. Maybe it was the look of abject horror on my face of the very thought of it. Maybe I'm not very good at covering my distaste for such things. I smiled and politely thanked her for the offer but it wasn't necessary. She then replied with a kind of puzzled expression "Oh, you just like to take pictures of" she paused as she tried to think of the correct word then finally uttered the magic word "things." I suppose you could say that. I like to take pictures of things. I just don't understand the whole concept of needing a photo of yourself standing next to, in front of, or nearby some object.

It's a short walk to the station, well it should have been if not for the roadworks. Somehow I manage not to get myself run over as I traverse some major roads and before I know it, I'm at the station. The next part I must say was pretty painless. I not only managed to get my pass validated, I also got tommorows ticket for Brussels (you have to pay a supplement because it's a Thalys train, its €20 for first class) and I have the cabin booked for the night train from Barcelona.

From the station I decide to take the opportunity to look around the Place Monge Market - it's only a short taxi ride away. This market takes place on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday whereas Place Maubert market takes place on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. You'll find that some of the stallholders are the same, they just move from one market to the other.
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The market stalls fan out from a central fountain and you'll find a usual array of sumptious items. There's even that Lagioule stall from yesterday. I stay strong and decide against it - as it is I'm carting around too many things, I need to get rid of things not buy more.

Though it's hard not to buy some of these gorgeous cheeses.
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In the afternoon I discover another constant of life - there are always queues in the post office. No matter what country or what time, you'll always have to wait. I also suffer minor heart failure at the cost of posting some of my excess baggage back home - *cough*thirty five euros*cough* and that's for sea mail!

The rest of the night I've spent re-organising by luggage and getting myself ready for the train tomorrow.

As for Paris, what can I say. First impressions weren't very good and it took a little while to warm up to it, but the markets have won me over. I'd like to come back, perhaps for a week or two, and take better advantage of the fact that I'm in an apartment with a kitchen!

For more photos please click on the links below:
Notre Dame Set
Place Monge Set
Paris Set

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Paris - Day 2

It's an early start this morning as I head for the Place Maubert Market. I'm told it opens at 7am but instead of finding a bustling market I find it's still in the process of being setup. Actually, it's still quite dark but I do manage to get a few shots.

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Calling a halt due to bad light, I decide to brave a nearby cafe and try out my trusty rusty french. So stealing myself I enter, standing at the bar, I manage to get the attention of the tender, a burly moustachioed man, cigarette dangling from the corner of his lip, "cafe au lait, s'il vous plait" I manage to utter. He nods and heads for the coffee machine - a success!

Feeling quite pleased with myself I stand at the bar (because all the other patrons are also standing at the bar) as my coffee arrives - one cafe au lait as ordered!

By the time I emerge it's lightened up considerably but the market is still a way off from being ready. It's this time that I finally see it - Notre Dame is just at the end of the street!. It really is close - this really makes me feel a whole lot better. After taking a few more market shots I decide to spend some time at Notre Dame before returning to see the market in full working order.

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Standing before Notre Dame it is an impressive sight - and though I feel a certain moistness in my eyes, it's not from the church's grandeur but from the incredibly overwhelming stench of urine.

While trying not to breath I manage to enter the church itself and the only thought that went through my mind was WOW. I don't think I've ever seen a church to match the size and scale of this. It's actually overwhelming.

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Since I've filled up the SD cards I decide to stop for breakfast at a cafe that overlooks Notre Dame. They have a "typical french breakfast" special for €9. What you get is a small orange juice, a croissant & piece of baguette (with butter and jam) and a coffee of your choice. It was adequate but I'd probably have to say overpriced but it was a comfortable way to load all those photos onto the Ipod.

Armed with empty cards I now head to the nearby batobus stop opposite Notre Dame - I purchase a two day unlimited travel card - it's only €13.

The first stop is down from Notre Dame at Jardins des Plantes. It's on the way here that you'll get that classic photo of the Notre Dame
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It's also on these banks that I catch sight of this strange creature
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it's the all too common, one-eyed, white footed, big mouthed boob

At Jardine des Plantes the boat turns around and heads up the right hand branch of the Seine giving you good views of Ile St Louise and Ile de la Cité. It then stops at Hôtel de Ville, Louvre, Champs Elysee and finally the Eiffel Tower (where it once again turns around).

I hop off at the Eiffel Tower and once again find that I've filled up the SD cards. As it's a bit warm I get myself a €3 granita that wasn't very frozen and wait while the photos are transfered.

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It's as I'm standing here with my overpriced liquid granita and with wires dangling from my black bag that I wonder how sensible it is to be standing in front of the eiffel tower carrying a bag with dangling wires.

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I'm glad that these guys didn't see me with my wired bag.

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I don't know if this will be very popular but the eiffel tower is umm, kinda boring. It's just a big metal antenna. Once again I thought I'd have a more positive reaction but it's just a let down. I might make another t-shirt that says "I went to the eiffel tower and all I saw was an antenna."

Having seen enough of the eiffel tower I head back to the boat and the notre dame stop for another visit to the market. This time its in full swing (its mid-morning now) and I manage to purchase a few items to see me through the next two days. Fresh food prices, to me, seem very reasonable - there's also a range of items that we could only dream of having.

One stall is selling Lagioule products - should I get that Lagioule waiters friend or not? I decide to pass on it this time - I don't know if I can survive another temptation.

Mid-afternoon I venture back down to the batobus - I decide to walk down my street for a change there's something I want to see - what you ask? Ahh, that gastronomic high temple - La Tour D'Argent - famed for its pressed duck. Lunch is on offer for a set price of €70. Maybe tomorrow...

I spend the next few hours going up and down the river - I'm looking to get some twilight shots.
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I arrive at the Eiffel Tower when it's too dark and decide to call it a night and head back home.
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You can find all of the Place Maubert photos here:
Place Maubert Set

For more photos of Notre Dame go here:
Notre Dame Set

For more photos from the Batobus, go here:
Paris Set

Monday, September 12, 2005

Paris - Day 1

While the Eurostar was effortless, the rest of the journey was not. Ah yes, good old Carriage 7 - another hike along an overheated platform for the length of the train until you reach the station proper.

I had planned to get my transport tickets from the Tourist Information Desk but fighting through the swarms of people coming off and going onto international trains meant an early end to this quest - I decided to head off to the apartment instead.

Following signs I managed to find the taxi rank - unfortunately it seemed that everyone else at the train station also wanted to catch a taxi. What followed was a very slow wait for over an hour until I finally reached the head of the queue.

While in the line I couldn't help but notice that some people would lift their wheeled bags over any streams of water on the footpath - I thought it odd since I couldn't see what the harm was in getting a little bit of water on the wheels.

Alas, the reason for this action became clear as I headed into the taxi - there in full glory, pants down, was a man of dubious lodgings, having a good ole piss against the station wall - ahh yes, and on the footpath a new stream was forming. Lovely. Just lovely.

I filed this new bit of knowledge away - it's not just dog droppings that I'm going to have to be on the lookout for.

The taxi trip was rather uneventful but efficient as I was quickly taken to my destination on Cardinal Lemoine in the 5th arrondsiment.

The exterior looked exactly as its photos - that's always a good sign. The security code worked, another good sign and when I buzzed the apartment, Didier, the owner came quickly downstairs to greet me.

The building was equipped with one of those cupboard sized elevators - just large enough for 2 people and a bag.

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View from the balcony

The apartment I've rented is on the 4th floor - 2 double doors lead out to a small balcony - there's a tiny kitchen but it has everything you could need and a bathroom complete with washing machine (that is going to come in handy). The bedroom is shared with the living area.

Didier fills me in on the neighbourhood, I won't have to go far to find a supermarket it's just in the next street, and the open air markets are on alternative days at either Place Maubert or Place Monge - tomorrow morning it's in Place Maubert (tomorrow morning is now planned!)

After showing me how things work in the apartment, I bid Didier a fond farewell since I will be leaving early on Thursday, I probably won't be seeing him again.

Taking advantage of the rapidly diminishing daylight I made haste to the supermarket where I was astounded by the relative "cheapness" of the products on offer - 1 1/2 litres of mineral water for 40 cents! I am in Paris aren't I?

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View at night from the balcony

My evening was spend hastily making backups of all my photos having had a little scare with the notebook and its unwillingness to shut-down (only solution was removal of the battery - then crossed fingers that it would reboot).

Feeling a bit like Scarlett O'Hara I make this vow "I shall never not backup my files again!"

You're a (Euro)Star

The big day has arrived where I bid sunny, cloudy, rainy, thundery, humid London a sad farewell. The Hostess has arranged for a driver to take me to Waterloo International at 9am and right on cue he arrives.

The drop off point is right at arrivals - walk through the door and voilà, there you are - no hiking up stairs, trekking through mazes or fighting escalators. I check once more about validating my Europass (yes, call me paranoid) and am once again directed to Check-in counter 3. However, it seems in this trip, things never run as they should. At check in I’m told that they no longer validate passes and I have to do it at the other end. Now the person who just told me is 3 foot away from the one that told me to go to counter 3. When I point it out, she brushes it off and says that they should know that they don’t do it anymore. With that, my Eurostar ticked is swiped and i’m allowed through.

First point is x-ray - jackets have to be removed, everything is scanned and I pass the metal detector without a problem.

The next point is immigration - well it’s double immigration. First, you go through the British officials and about 2 paces away are the French. I’m welcomed through with a traditional welcoming scowl. I feel that french charm already.

The terminal is akin to an airport - a long corridor, with platform entry escalators along its length, on the sides are duty free shops, newsagents, tacky giftware perfect for those relatives you can’t stand and there’s also a few cafés/bars.

Finding a seat initially isn’t a problem but the lack of seating is apparent when more passengers arrive. Two trains are scheduled to leave within 5 minutes of each other. I’m sure the lack of seating is a ploy to get people into the cafe’s. I’m kind of amazed at the number of people having full strength pints of ale at 9.30 in the morning. But what should I know. I’m not British.

Boarding commences 15 minutes prior to departure and as things would have it, I once again pick the wrong entrance. It’s not as bad as it could have been - I arrive on the platform at carriage 1 - i’m in number 7 - i’m consoled by the knowledge that i could have been seated in carriage 18! Though by the end of the trip I wish I was.

The carriage layout for first (it’s different in premium first and standard) - it’s a one seat - aisle - two seat arrangement - some chairs are facing to form groups of four or 2 - i’m facing forward in a single. It’s decorated in the Eurostar colours, silvery-grey and red. Wide velour seats with moveable armrests, tray table squeals and squawks its way out from the seat in front, a small bin is attached to the wall - the walls are also red.

The interior is looking a bit tatty - the carpet, diagonally striped bands of silver and red has seen better days, it’s stained throughout, the chairs are looking tired, frayed edges and stained - they must be coming up for a refit (or one hopes they are).

The crew uniforms - women are dressed in a round neck collarless silver-grey shirt and black pants (much nicer than the Qantas sacks), their hair in french buns no less - the men however are clad in a body forming black Lycra sports shirt with deep grey trousers. I’d have to say the men have the far more stylish outfit - I especially liked their matt finished silver Eurostar branded buckle (not that i was looking there for any other reason).

It became obvious very quickly that the double glazing was not a photographers friend. There aren’t just reflections from the internal lights and people sitting in the carriages, it’s a double reflection - it put an end to any serious photos.


This photo clearly demonstrates the problem.








About 10 minutes out from Waterloo Station our attendant starts handing out the breakfast menu - the purpose of which seemed mute, since no orders were taken before service began.


There are two options - the express breakfast (apart from the different items) is served and cleared more quickly than the traditional.

Express Breakfast:
Winter fruit compote with crème fraîche
Greek yoghurt with honey
Muesli bar with strawberry pieces
Fresh fruit
Bread and Pastries

Traditional Breakfast:
Chicken sausage, herb omelette, cracked black pepper tomato, mushrooms with a grain mustard coating and sautéed potatoes
Greek yoghurt with honey
Bread and pastries

Beverages
Fresh Orange Juice
Tea, coffee and hot chocolate


that isn't a metal serviette ring, it's paper that's made to look like metal (more like a photocopy)






The chicken sausage was tasty like dim sims are tasty in the “I-don’t-want-to-know-what’s-in-them” way. The skin looked synthetic and had peeled away from the “meat” - the sausage was flecked with tiny chunks of what i hope was chicken. It was chickeny in colour so it just might be chicken. The omelette was firm but not rubbery. The mushrooms were abysmal - memo to Eurostar - ask Qantas how to do them. The tomato didn’t have any real pepper taste and the potatoes, though they looked crisp had gone soft.

The Tims Dairy yoghurt is surprising good, it has the texture of soft whip ice-cream, it's light and creamy and with a subtle honey flavour. Equally enjoyable was the pulpy Tropicana Orange Juice.

The bread and pastries were served on the tray with Lescure butter and, in my case, Bonne Femme Apricot conserve. Both items were cold, the bread a trifle on the dry side but the croissant, sacré bleu! It wasn’t buttery, it wasn’t crispy, it wasn’t flaky, it was stale. It had the texture of fine cardboard (not that i’ve ever eaten it). Perhaps they don’t let the decent croissants out of the country.

Near the end of breakfast a trolley was wheeled through, offering “champagne”, mini bottles of white and red wines and spirits.


For the sake of EAAALO I opted for the Pannier Champagne (don’t ask me either, i’ve never heard of it) - a sip tells me it’s closer kin is Minchinbury. It does come in its Eurostar etched glass - that must make it taste better.







Breakfast trays are removed about 30 minutes later, so I’m not how much quicker the express option could have been.

At 11.15 a bell sounded and we were told that the train was now travelling at it’s maximum speed - 300km/h.

You can sort of make out how quick that is.

The train at this speed is definitely smooth, and walking down the passage doesn’t come with that usual problem of landing head first in some strange man’s lap (not that it’s ever happened to me).

15 minutes out from Paris and it was still wide open farmland, interspersed with closeted villages, the omnipresent church steeples pinpointing the towns. It’s rural France - not what i expected to see so close to Paris.

Just like the train, this travelogue ends suddenly- in the case of Eurostar, it draws into Gare du Nord with little fanfare and leaves me with the feeling of "is that it?"