Eurostar - London to Paris

After enjoying ourselves at The Champagne Bar it was soon time to head back downstairs to catch the Eurostar. It was then a case of "typical" that all the elevators and escalators heading down were no longer working which meant we had to carry our bags down the broken escalator. Maybe we shouldn't have had that extra Champagne.

When we then turned up to check-in, there were rather large queues and it seemed that the electrical problem was also effecting the entry gates.

The last time I was on Eurostar was in 2005 and things have changed a little from then. There are still  different classes but they are now called Business Premier, Standard Premier and Standard. After studying the differences I can tell you that the standard premier and the business premier have exactly the same seats so the considerable amount extra you'll pay for going business isn't really worth it.

After queuing to have our e-ticket scanned, there was another queue for the x-ray machines and then a bit more queuing to go through immigration - we both managed to get a particularly surly Frenchman who gave Paalo an especially long once over.

The final bit of farce was the complete balls up in regard to boarding the train. It seemed that only one up travelator was working and instead of letting people go up on the non functioning downwards travelators they were just allowing the crowd to build and build. Finally someone decided to allow people to walk up the broken travelators to the platform but only if they didn't have any luggage.

The reason for this became apparent as we began our ascent - these were on a seriously steep angle and even just trying to hold onto your luggage was difficult - I can't imagine how difficult it would be with the travelator not working.

After all this, the train left pretty much on time and there's only one stop, just outside of London - from there it is non-stop to Paris.

As part of the Standard Premier ticket we've given a light lunch

Train: Venice - Rome

We're on the Eurostar to Rome and we have availed ourselves to the on-board restaurant. It isn't quite as luxurious as the journey to Venice - gone are the china plates, we have paper plates this time.



Our first course is pasta - Paalo chooses this dish of Sedanini Pomodoro e Balsilico and I have Sedanini all Sorentina, which looked very similar but had melted balls of mozzarella through it.




We both have the same main - Fettine di Manzo alla Rustica with Piselli al Prosciutto (thin slices of beef filled with a garlic and parsley sauce served with peas and ham)

We wash down our lunch with 2 bottles of the 2004 Masi Campofiorin

The same dessert options are offered - chocolate cake and apple cake which are followed by fruit salad.

Train: Florence - Venice

We're off to Venice on the Eurostar and this trip takes 2 hours 45 minutes. give or take any delays. Since we won't be in Venice until 1.22pm we've decided to have lunch in the train Restaurant. I make a reservation on board and the service is to start after Bologna.


This is the dining room and it is arranged in tables of four and two - we get a table for two.




There's real cutlery and proper plates!



Our first bottle of wine is this half-bottle of Sabazio - it's very easy to drink and extremely pleasant.

There are two choices for first course - a pasta with tomato and basil sauce and farfalle with porcini and parsley



We both have the Farfalle with Porcini. It's interesting as you don't order the food, the waiter comes around with a large platter that has just come out of the kitchen and you tell him whether you want some or not. It is then silver served.

For the second course the menu listed a braise of beef but it wasn't ready in time - the food is made on the train. So we both have the other option.



Chicken breast cooked in a spiced tomato sauce and topped with a slice of mozarrella - it is also silver served at the table along with the steamed potatoes.



Our second red is this most impressive 2004 Masi Campofiorin - it's hard to believe a wine this good is served on a train.

There are two cakes on offer



I have the apple and sultana tart




and Paalo has the chocolate tart.



we also get this really good pre-made fruit salad which is wonderfully fresh - in comparison to some of the sorry excuses for fruit salad that we've had on planes, this is pure luxury.

It's not the cheapest meal but for convenience and the quality I think it's a pretty good deal. We're certainly going to avail ourselves to the restaurant on the return trip from Venice.

Train: Milan - Arezzo

I really should have taken a few more photos of Milan Station but I really didn't have time. I just managed to snap this on the way to catch to our train - the 9am Eurostar to Florence.

Inside you'll find that quite a bit of the station is under scaffolding but the parts that you can see where they have finished their restoration and cleaning works just look fabulous. It will be a true joy to see this jewel sparkling again.

The trip to Florence is uneventful, the train is as full as I had suspected considering that tomorrow is a holiday and people will be taking Friday off to make it an extra long weekend.

At Florence we swap to a regional train for the 1 hour trip to Arezzo.

Train: Varenna to Milano

For the short ride to the station it's an €8 fare - but worth it as we don't have to walk in the rain or tote our bags up the hill.



Varenna-Esino station is quite basic and even more so off-season. In summer you will find it houses the tourist office but now there is no-one not even a station master. You might be lucky and get a recorded message informing you of the next train but don't rely on that.



There is a ticket machine but by the notice on the wall and by the graffiti on the machine it seems that this machine is frequently not working and in fact wasn't working today. It also only sells regional tickets so my advice would be to make sure you already have your tickets purchased before you get here, which is exactly what I've done.

If the machine isn't working you can buy train tickets from a couple of stores close by, they are both shown on the diagram above the machine or you could take the advice written if desperate and buy the ticket as soon as you board the train. I really do stress that you do that as a last resort and as soon as you board go find the conductor.



There are actually two platforms here - platform 2 is that rather narrow sliver of asphalt between the tracks. Both coming and going you'll usually find yourself having to use it.



This is the first class carriage of the regional train to Milano and the difference between it and second is only that it is less crowded. The seats are exactly the same.

We were a little late into Milan as our train was delayed at Varenna by the train going in the opposite direction arriving 5 minutes late. As there is only one line through the tunnel we had to wait.

Train: Florence to Varenna

We arrived into Florence with rain and it seems we will leave with rain.



We're catching the Eurostar to Milan where we hope to make the connecting regional train to Varenna-Esino. There's a short turnaround time so no delays are needed if we are to make it.

In case you are wondering Varenna is a town on Lake Como.

The train departs pretty much on time though the signs are not looking good when we stop at Bologna a little later than expected. As we arrive at Milano Centrale things are looking good again until the train inexplicably stops in the railyards for 10 minutes. Unbelievably close yet not close enough, the regional leaves on time and we watch it pull away from the platforms.

Now with two hours to kill until the next train we drop off most of our bags into Left luggage - as the bags go through an x-ray machine, we keep the one with my film in it.

As we avoid the umbrella sellers during our trek through the rain we head for a nearby cafe for a leisurely lunch - no photos as it wasn't anything great.

By the time we return to the station, our train is surprisingly already on the platform a good half hour before it's ready to leave so we check out our bags and board. It's a good thing we did as by the time it's ready to leave, the train is absolutely packed. It's standing room only even in first class, with people packed into the carriage entrances.

If the train we missed was the same, then we probably wouldn't have taken it. I have no idea why it is so full, could be because it is a Friday, the trains do tend to be more crowded.

An hour later we arrive at Varenna to a light drizzle and since there are no taxis we walk to the hotel.

Train: Perugia - Florence

Okay I will concede that I just might have gone a little crazy and bought just a little too much chocolate, considering I couldn't fit everything into my suitcase and had to pull out my camera bag and carry it seperately - I certainly won't mention that even it contained chocolate.

At breakfast I took the opportunity to take a photo of a notice on the buffet table



All I can say, it's about time! It used to really disgust me the way people would just treat the breakfast buffet has their lunch and snack bar, ferreting away copious quantities of food. What was worse were the ones that came prepared with plastic bags to hide their stash and they would always look around to make sure the staff couldn't seem them.



Apart from the card reader locking up when I was checking out, everything really went well. I enjoyed my time immensely and this is one place I'd gladly return to. You don't really mind the stairs, slopes and hills because it is just so photogenic and picturesque.

I had noted the taxi ranks on the previous days but as usual when I arrived, no taxis were present. As I contemplated my next course of action I spotted a taxi and signalled - although he couldn't take me as he was on his way to pick up a fare, he called it into the depot and another taxi was being dispatched.

Indeed in 5 minutes, the taxi arrived and I was on my way to the station. Once again, it was an €8 fare, very reasonably considering the options. The taxi was clean, the driver polite and really highlighted just how bad the taxis in Florence are.



The train I'm taking is another direct regional train, though this one runs non-stop from Arezzo to Florence.

During my trip, two New Zealand women learn a valuable lesson.

After managing to hoist their overlarge suitcases into the train they settled in to read their lonely planet guide to Italy. During the journey the conductor came to check tickets and that is when the problems arose. They had failed to validate their tickets and were sitting in first class with a second class ticket.

The conductor found an English speaking passenger to play translator as he explained the situation - all the while they were claiming they didn't know what he even meant by validating the ticket.

Now so other traveller will get into trouble, when you buy a train ticket you need to validate it in the yellow boxes that sit through all train stations. Because a lot of these tickets are open ended and not time and date specific, you need to validate them, the machine puts a time stamp on them - this is because the conductor can't possible see everyone's ticket and if it's validated you won't be able to use it at a later date.

Their excuse for being in first class was that they just saw the non-smoking sign and went in the carriage. Somehow they missed the big 1's and 2's also marked on the carriage. The translator helpfully informed them that all trains are non-smoking and that is just an old sign.

The conductor said he should fine them but he would let them off this one time but they will have to pay the difference for being in 1st class.

Now this when it gets funny. Because they had travelled all of 15 minutes in first class they would have to pay €10 each extra but to go all the way to Florence would cost €12 each extra. Needless to say they paid the €12 and stayed in first class.

This was amusing as my perugia to Florence ticket cost €13! It makes me wonder how much ended up in the conductors pocket.

So be warned, make sure your tickets are correct because they will fine you and they won't let you off like they do Italian citizens and believe me I've seen it happen enough to know that there is one rule for locals and another for the rest of us.

Train: Florence to Perugia

I'm off to Perugia for EuroChocolate 2007, the annual chocolate extravaganza. I'm leaving Tuscany for a sojourn in Umbria.



The train I've caught is a direct train to Perugia, most involve a change at Arezzo or Terontala. This train is a regional but it's the quickest one - you could take the IC from Florence into Arezzo, it would leave half an hour later and still get there in time to catch the train I'm on.



There's quite a few tunnels on the stretch to Arezzo with quite a large one right after Campo de Marte Station. In fact there are 5 tunnels to Figline and then 7 tunnels from Motevarchi to Arezzo - beware your ears really do feel that pressure change.

The train also seems to corkscrew in this last leg with the sun moving sides 5 times. After Arezzo there's only another 4 tunnels to Perugia.

Once you arrive at Perugia make sure you get out at the right station - there are 3, you want to exit at the Perugia Fontivegge station right after the University stop.

The station is a little way from the historic centre of the town and that is where I'll be staying, right in the middle of Eurochocolate itself. I had tossed the idea about of just catching one of many buses into town but on seeing the hordes and their bags waiting for the bus, I decided to take one of the plentiful taxis at the station - it was only an €8 trip, a bargain to get me virtually straight to the door.

Florence - Day 18

Today I did all those little things that needed to be done and packed up since I'm leaving for Perugia tomorrow. It would have been nice to have an early night but the really annoying neighbours decided to have a party so that was the end of that plan.

I will be really glad to be get of here and hopefully they will be gone by the time I return.

Train: Turin - Florence

We leave with the rain still falling in Turin and we've only got a 10 minute window to switch train in Milan so we're both watching the clock. If you've been to Milan Station you'll know how big it is so we're hoping the connecting train isn't in a platform too far away from ours. It does seem that I've got whatever Paalo has and I'm feeling even worse today than yesterday so poor Paalo is having to manage most of the bags.



The train arrives at Torino Porto Nuovo well in time and we settle ourselves in a booth - unfortunately all of first class are six seater booths and we share the journey with a group of gossiping women on a shopping trip to Milan. Some of these women don't even pause to breathe!

Mid way through the trip the drinks guy comes through and one of the women order a macchiato. I have to stifle the chuckle when I see him rip open the instant coffee sachet! Worse still, it costs €1.50!

Once she takes a sip, the drama ensures and eventually it's thrown away.

The train is coming in late to Milan but I think I spy the connected Eurostar train just two platforms away as we pull in. I hurry off and a quick look at the board tells me I was right and we scurry over to catch the train. We probably make it with 5 minutes to spare as the Eurostar leaves a little late too.

We arrive into Florence about 10 minutes late and the rain has come with us.

Train: Milan - Turin

Finally the last leg of this ridiculously long journey.

I leave Paalo on the platform with the bags while I go and purchase our train tickets and some more water. It gives him some time just to settle himself.

Milano Centrale is probably my favourite station and when we were last here 2 years ago plans were in the pipeline to expand and restore the station. Well, I can report that restoration is indeed underway with parts of the station closed off.

It's really quick to buy the tickets from the vending machines but they only seem to take credit cards and you must validate the ticket before you board - validation is easy once you find a machine that works.

The train we're catching is a regional so it will be stopping quite often, however it seems to be stopping at quite a few unscheduled places as it waits for trains to pass. Just when you really need to get somewhere quickly, the train takes even longer than normal and we arrive about 30 minutes late.

Night Train: Rome - Milan

The only hitch at the airport comes at Immigration - the lines are broken into EU passport holders and Non-EU passport. On the occasions I've travelled with Paalo we've been told to go through together even though he has a British passport and I have an Australian passport. This being Italy they do things differently and because my passport needs to be stamped I'm sent back to queue in the line from hell. Why she can't stamp my passport is beyond me but I'm not going to argue.

This doesn't prove to be that bad as this gives Paalo time to go pick up our bags - and luckily he is there when they first appear.

By the time I'm through he is waiting with all our bags and we're ready to go.

From the airport it's a bit of a trudge to reach the connecting train station - only because just like Japan it is incredibly humid. But once at the station, it's really simple to purchase the tickets for the Leonardo express that will take us straight to Roma Termini station.

The train is already on the platform so we hop on board and it's off within 5 minutes.

The only downside of our most fortuitous run is that we now have a long wait for our 11pm night train to Milan.

One thing I've noticed is that they really know how to charge for water - it's cheaper to buy water in the vending machines than to buy it from the shops within the station.

The train was supposed to arrive on platform 6 but when it's eventually marked on the board it's now coming into platform 8. It is called the Espresso 1910 and from my previous night train experience I've made sure we have the largest room on board. The Matrimonial Suite as it is called has a double bed complete with bathroom - sounds big, looks big on the floor-plans at the Alitalia site, in reality it's still a shoe-box.

The bed is a good size but it tapers so that the base is smaller than the top - the distance between the foot of the bed and the bathroom is a shoe-width.

At least there is space to do a bit of a reorganisation on our bags and to stow them out of the way.

As for the bathroom, if you sat on the toilet you could probably put your feet in the shower but the washbasin would get in your way, I think I've seen similar sized ones in dollhouses.

06:00

I've actually found the trip quite but comfortable unfortunately Paalo is really not feeling well at all. He is suffering from really bad cramping in the legs a residual effect from the flight to Tokyo where he wasn't able to stretch out during the flight.

We're served breakfast at 6:30, it consists of juice, yoghurt, coffee, a fresh pastry and bread. All Paalo can manage is a little yoghurt.

The train arrives into Milano Centrale just after 7am.

Train: Rome to Florence

Unfortunately the taxi that had been ordered never arrived - I think it got snatched by the large hotel just opposite. We decide to head to the main road and take a taxi from the taxi rank there rather than just wait forever.

Luckily it proves to be the correct decision and before long we're on our way to the station. The trip is nowhere near as entertaining but nowhere near as expensive only costing €12!




The train to Florence is the Italian Eurostar branded trains and it only takes a very brief 1 and a half hours to complete the trip.

Train - Bologna to Milano

Well, I'm just about back on my original schedule and today I head to Milan.

Depending on which type of train you're on the trip will take between 1 hour 44 minutes and 2 hours 22 minutes.

Once again it's a different type of train - the 70's wallpaper and blue seats are gone and I find myself sitting in this

Train - Genoa to Bologna

Q: What's the best thing about Genoa?
A: Leaving.

While I was at the station yesterday I had a look for where my train will leave. There's no escalators or elevators so it means two flights down and one flight up dragging these bags to get to my platform. With that in mind I make sure I leave with plenty of time to spare.



I'm travelling on an IR Train (don't you love that blue interior) and by the look of the wallpaper in the carriage it was last remodelled in 1972!



Though I must add that this train is at least cleanish and with minimal amounts of corrosion. Some others I saw while waiting at the station look like they've been pulled out of the scrap heap.

It's just over a 3 and a half hour trip with a change at Milano Centrale.

Train - Turin to Genoa

It is with great sadness that I leave Turin - it really is possible to fall in love with a place. I'm also sad to leave such a lovely b&b - it certainly has been a tonic. It's left me wondering why I wasted so much time in Germany and Austria! I know I shouldn't be like that but seriously I had such a much better time here, it kinda felt like I was home.

Roberto, the host very kindly takes my luggage downstairs and to the taxi, even telling the driver which station I'm going to. Since I've already been to Porta Nuova there's no great dramas when I arrive at the construction zone.

The train I catch is the Intercity (it's final destination is Naples, that's a 12 hour trip!) - getting to Genoa and it's station Piazza Principe takes a little over an hour and half.

Night Train: Munich to Turin

The train I'm on is the DB NachtZug - I've got quite a large room all to myself and it even has it's own bathroom complete with shower, though the chances of anyone actually fitting in that shower bewilders me. It seems newer and at least it's free of that smoke smell that permeated through the cracks in the night train to Budapest. The bed is shorter but wider and ride is really quite smooth and quite. I'm able to get a much better sleep here.

Something odd happens in this train.

I start off near the rear of the train and facing backwards but during the night somehow I end up facing forward and up the front of the train.

The deluxe breakfast is served at the pre-ordained time - I would not like to see the non-deluxe version!



There's some fantastic scenery around Lugano - it's still so dark but you can see the street lights twisting their way up the mountain.

Not long after and it's Como



and less than an hour to go before I'm here - Milano Centrale.



This station is massive and oh so beautiful - I can't believe how excited I am to be finally in Italy. I have a little bit of time to kill before I catch the train to Torino so I visit the various newsagents buying up loads of Italian Cooking magazines!



It's on this train for the next couple of hours that I sit and read and feel comfortable in my surrounds. Something I haven't really been able to say for a while.

Train - Hallstatt to Munich

It was a fairly restless sleep - I felt like I was drowning. This hasn't been the relaxing break that I'd planned. The church bells decide to ring at 6am putting the end to any thoughts of managing to sleep a little longer. I'm up by 7am and by 7.30am dressed and fully packed. At 8am I have breakfast and afterwards go to settle the bill. While looking at the statement I notice a €16 restaurant charge. This is for eating at the restaurant I'm told. Yes, but I didn't charge €16 to my room and when I did eat there it was for more and I paid in cash. Hmm, are you sure you didn't have something else? Yes I'm quite sure. Maybe something delivered to your room? No, nothing.

A telephone call is made to the boss - oops, seems there's been a bit of a mistake. Yes, you could say that.

With the bill finally settled I head off to the dock and find that there's a ferry going at 8.44am so I catch it. At this stage I just rather wait for the train at the station - I'm kinda over Hallstatt. Hallstatt is pretty and it knows it. Though it doesn't quite live up to it's perfectly photographed image - there are just way too many cars to make it the ideal that it's purported to be.

It's also misinformation that you can criss-cross the town in 10 minutes - not with all the stairs and paths you need to take I think the guide books *cough*rick steves*cough* have been overly effusive in their description of this place and tried to turn it into some kind of nirvana.



This is a photo of the path from the train station down to the boat dock - I'm glad I took the earlier boat - no-one else was on it, I really didn't want an audience seeing me trying to wheel the bags up to the station. I was able to wheeze and have a coughing fit in private.



This is Hallstatt station - it's pretty indicative of the stations in this area - just a gravel path for a platform.

By the time the train arrives the ferry has returned and dropped off a few more people. I'm actually leaving an hour earlier than I had originally planned but that's not a problem - I'll just get into civilisation and a chemist an hour earlier!

I change trains at Attnang-Puchheim and again at Salzburg - the photo below is of Salzburg station.



I'm able to grab a sandwich for lunch while waiting for the train to Munich.



This long train passes by while I wait - I got a chuckle out of it.

The train to Munich is another one of those 6 seat booth types - it gets in before 2.30pm.

Train: Vienna to Hallstatt

You can probably work out that yes I'm going to Hallstatt.

Well, my initial reason for going to Hallstatt was to find someplace to relax after all the travelling I've been doing and it's probably as good a place as any to try get over this bug that I've got.

Last night while packing I decided to outsmart my hosts by packing my bags as I've normally done, the larger bag being the heavier of the two. It's typical that when it comes time to leave, my hostess helps me with the bags by taking the smaller one. Doh!

I had originally planned to be catching the 10:34am train but I'm out of the b&b so early that I'll be able to make the 9:34am. I just didn't enjoy myself there and want to get away as soon as I can.

I trundle down to the taxi rank and come upon another happy driver willing to take me the short distance to the station. I'm more pleased when the fare turns out to be very reasonable as well.

There aren't that many people on board the train to Attnang-Puchheim - I have to change there for the train to Hallstatt.



It's a pleasant enough 2 and a half hour journey - there's some beautiful scenery but alas the train windows aren't conducive to good photo taking.



The train I change onto is only 2nd class, it's a regional train - there's not quite as much space as the other trains but once again, the scenery is stunning.



This was about the best of the shots taken - there are lots of gorgeous mountains, I mean real mountains and lakes. Very picturesque indeed. It's around about 1 and a half hour trip to Hallstatt.

Near the end of my journey the conductor comes over and asks what stop I'm getting off at - I tell him and he advises me that it will be arriving at 1.50 so I should go and wait at the door and be ready as the train doesn't linger.

With his words ringing in my ears and my eye on the clock, I dutifully make my way to the door - I don't want to delay the train or anything. As the train pulls into the station, I head off, lugging my bags out and onto the gravel platform. Looking up I see the name of the station and at the next door the Conductor yells out "It's the next stop!" Doh!

I hurdle the luggage back on board, grumbling to myself. The train is running 10 minutes late.

When I eventually leave the train the Conductor gives me one of those smiles - yeah, I think I've seen enough of those smiles.

Now, when you read those all so thoughtful and gushing travel columns about Hallstatt you'll read how you'll trundle down a gentle path from the station and onto the waiting ferry for your short trip across the lake.

Well, yes, I suppose that would be what happens in theory.

In theory, there'd be a ferry - in reality, you wait.

The gentle path isn't quite as gentle - and if you have trailing luggage, you'll find they suddenly have a tendency to want to run you over. On the way down, my thoughts were to the fun I'm going to have, trying to get my bags back up that slope!

To cross the lake, it will cost €1.80 for the 5 or so minute trip and for the Australian's out there, the captain bears an uncanny resemblance to Bargearse.

Train: Budapest - Vienna

I have promised some photos of the apartment so here they are







This is the internal courtyard taken from my floor and


from ground level



This is the staircase of the building that shares the entry portico and an iron light fitting in that area


and the original floor


Although the building has seen better days, there's still a lot of pride in getting things as nice as they can. The apartment itself can't be faulted and I'll be back for sure. There's so many things I haven't seen and I must admit I have fallen in love with this city. It has some kind of x-factor.

After bidding my host farewell I head downstairs to find that the taxi is waiting - it's certainly arrived on time if not earlier than booked. It's a quick drive to Keleti station and I manage to get a snap of the front of the station


Though the photos fairly poor, it is taken with the cameraphone as I waited at the lights - I think you can get an idea of it's grandness.

When we pull up to the station, the driver even takes my bags and places them on the footpath for me - there's a lot of negative things written about the taxi drivers in Budapest, but I can honestly say that they provided an excellent service.



I know I've said it before but I love this style of station - there's such a sense of history in their design, it's classic and timelessly elegant.







While I'm in the Ticket/Information area I encounter one of those "rude Americans" - probably brought here due to the Amazing Race (waves my fist at the amazing race). He's at the counter and speaks like the woman serving him is a retard. With over exaggerated pronunciations and speaking so slowly he wants to know what platform the Wien (and in his case, Whine) train will depart from. The women believes it to be platform 8. He then goes "so when do you think you'll know?" Arsehole. If the lazy so and so had bothered to check the poster on the wall behind him, he would see that the platform number is listed there.

The train pulls in before 9am and I board - it's another one of those six seat boot type trains.

and once again I have it to myself - well, I'm lucky that the surfer dudes thought that "nicht reserviert" meant that it was reserved.

During the trip the phone rings, I hadn't expected a call from home but situations can change. To my surprise it's the hostess from the B&B in Vienna letting me know that she won't be at the house but that her husband will be. That's nice. There's also another passport check at the border and I end up with another two stamps in the passport!