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Showing posts with label Italy - Turin 2005. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy - Turin 2005. Show all posts

Monday, October 24, 2005

Train - Turin to Genoa

It is with great sadness that I leave Turin - it really is possible to fall in love with a place. I'm also sad to leave such a lovely b&b - it certainly has been a tonic. It's left me wondering why I wasted so much time in Germany and Austria! I know I shouldn't be like that but seriously I had such a much better time here, it kinda felt like I was home.

Roberto, the host very kindly takes my luggage downstairs and to the taxi, even telling the driver which station I'm going to. Since I've already been to Porta Nuova there's no great dramas when I arrive at the construction zone.

The train I catch is the Intercity (it's final destination is Naples, that's a 12 hour trip!) - getting to Genoa and it's station Piazza Principe takes a little over an hour and half.

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Sunday, October 23, 2005

Turin - Day 4

For my last full day in Turin I decide to take advantage of the tourist bus. As I'm in the off-season, it only operates on the weekends starting from 10am. So, that means after breakfast it's a leisurely walk to Piazza Solferino.

I decide to take a more scenic route through the streets of Turin.

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Odd thing to take a picture of I know, but this is a car sharing station. The idea is that you join, in this case, Car City Club and throughout the city there are stations like this where you can just jump in and take the car for as long or as little as you like and when you've finished you just leave it a station.

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Before too long I'm finally I'm at my destination - and if you have a keen eye you can see the yellow bus I'll soon be on!

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As I wait in the bus the driver starts chatting with me and I find out he has lots of relatives in Melbourne. By the time we depart, there's only one other person on board. I don't take any pictures on the tour but I soon realise that I've hardly seen anything and galvanises the idea that I must return to see the full beauty of this city.

After the tour I decide to take the tram out to see the Basilica di Supergra. Unfortunately when I get there I realise there's just too much cloud cover so I won't be able to experience it's fantastic views over Turin.

So I take the tram back to Piazza Madama and wind my way towards the National Museum of Italian Risorgimento.

Along the way I find the Chiesa di San Teresa (Church of St Teresa)
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The church was built between 1642-74 for Maria Cristina of France (whose remains are housed here). The design is by Andrea Costaguta.

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The facade is from 1764 and has been attributed to Carlo Filippo Alberti while the chapels at either end of the transept were designed in 1733 by Filippo Juvarra.

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I also go past this large construction zone which is the Piazza San Carlo.

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It's most famous feature are the the dual churches - Chiesa di San Cristina on the left and Chiesa di San Carlo Borromeo on the right. Piazza San Carlo was built between 1542-1650 and designed by Carlo di Castellamonte. Where you now see a large blue box is where the equestrian statue of Emanuele Filberto stands. It was sculpted by Marocchetti in 1838. On the left side of the squares stands the Palazzo Solaro del Borgo which is now the office of Il Circolo del Whist (The Whist Club) that was founded by Cavour. Part of the construction that's happening is the building of underground parking - with it, the piazza will be finally free of parked cars.

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I'll have to wait for the Olympics to see how this all turns out!

Passing by this building I'm enticing by the aromas coming from inside
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When I peek in to see the source I'm confronted by a bustling store where focaccias of all varieties are being made to order. It's full of locals and I can't resist the temptation.

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A thin based square topped with prosciutto and molten cheese - I dare anyone to resist!

Sated by this treat I soon come upon my destination - the Museo del Risorgimento - it's focus in the political unification of Italy that occurred in the nineteenth century. The idea for the museum was floated in 1878 but didn't open until 1908 when it was housed in the Mole Antonelliana. In 1938 it was relocated to it's present home in the Palazzo Carignano. The museum houses a full documentary history of the unification from 1706 (when the French were defeated at the siege of Turin) to 1946.

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These photos are taken from the internal courtyard - the curved section houses the Hall of the Subalpine Parliament.

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Palazzo Carignano was designed by Guarino Guarini and was the birthplace of Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. It was also the original home of the Subalpine Parliament and the Kingdom of Italy was proclaimed here in 1861. Carlo Alberto was also exiled here.

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This statue sits on Piazza Carlo Alberto which is located between Palazzo Carignano and the Biblioteca Nazionale (National University Library) which you can see to the right of the photo.

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The statue was made by Carlo Marocchetti and inaugurated in 1861.

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The National Library was founded by Vittorio Amedeo II.

After spending quite a while in the Museum I find myself back on Via Roma and going towards Piazza Castello. I meet up with some kind of street festival

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with the scent of roasted chestnuts filling the air and music coming from a wandering band.

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I plan my route home from here with a stop over at one of the cafe's for a late lunch.

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I ate inside here a couple of nights ago during the protests - today I dine outside.

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I have a plate of multi-coloured gnocchi - potato, spinach and tomato. A generous serve that I'm unable to finish.

The time spent between now and dinner is in organising myself for tomorrows departure. I've sourced some envelopes and scout out the location of the post office and it's opening times - I've got another load to mail off. I'll be interested to know come the end of this trip what the total weight of these packages have been.

For dinner I return to Aldente, the restaurant I so enjoyed on my first night in Turin.

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Antipasto - a wonderful mix of salami and cheese from the piedmonte region.

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A hearty plate of Ravioli - perfectly cooked and so delightfully small. They look like little crowns.

It's during my main course that Roberto, the host of the B&B turns up with a lady friend - I don't know why but I feel a little awkward. Then again, it underlines my thought that this indeed is a good restaurant if the locals are here.

Unfortunately I don't have a photo of dessert but I had the most wonderful Tiramisu I've ever tasted.

When I return to the B&B I find a rather anxious guest waiting at the door. I had seen him and his wife a couple of days earlier over breakfast. It seems he needs to get his passport but can't reach Roberto. See, you have to hand your passport over when you check in and you get it back when you check out. I feel a bit bad doing this, but I do tell him that he's having dinner at a restaurant just down the road and show him the way.

With that done I return to my room and take a last few photos of my room.

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I especially love that dressing table and it's rounded doors and drawers.

Saturday, October 22, 2005

Turin - Day 3

Today's adventures starts at the Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum) - this Museum is rated second only to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The museum was founded in 1824 and is located in a 17th century palace orginally built as a Jesuit school.

Due to the upcoming Olympics, the Museum is undergoing a bit of a face lift so I'm unable to see some of the pieces but I'm more than impressed on what they have on show.

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This is part of walls of Roman Turin - it runs straight thru the museum and the map shows you it's part around the old city.

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This is the Chapel of Ellesija - cut from rock on the west bank of the Nile, it was consecrated by King Tuthmosis III in 1454BC. This temple was donated by the Egyptian government as thanks for the Italian effort in the rescue of monuments destined to be submerged by the Aswan Dam project.

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Next comes the Statuario

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The Goddess Hathor (left) and The Goddess Sakhmet (Reign of Amenhotep III 1388-1351 BC)

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The God Ptah (Reign of Amenhotep III 1388-1351 BC)


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Group Sculpture of the Pharaoh with the God Amun (probably reign of Tutankhamun 1333-1323 BC) and King Ramesses II (Reign of Ramesses II 1279-1213 BC)

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Sphinx (Probably reign of Ramesses II)

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Unfortunately the sarcophagus rooms were closed due to renovation but I did take a couple of pics from the doorway

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Upstairs from the museum you'll find the Galleria Sabauda - no photos as cameras aren't allowed but it's worth a visit for some stunning art. The gallery was established in 1832 and contains artwork from the collections of the House of Savoy.

After my visit I decided to return to Palazzo Reale and a visit to the Duomo.

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The Duomo was built in 1491-98 by Meo del Caprino and is Turin's only Renaissance church. The facade is white marble and the bell tower of Sant'Andrea dates from 1465.

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Like many things in Turin, the church is currently undergoing renovations so I'm unable to view the altar and the dome. They do have a copy of the Shroud on display

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A short stroll away is Porta Palatina

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this dates from the first century AD and was one of the entrances to Roman Turin.

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A few minutes walk away is the market at Porta Palazzo - the open air section is a mixture of fresh vegetables and fruit and since today is Saturday, there's also a flea market.

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The fish market is undercover

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once again I'm regretting not having access to a kitchen.

Heading down the pedestrian strip of Via Garibaldi there's another market, this time it's a small organics market situated in the Piazza Palazzo di Cittá.

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When I passed by here a couple of days ago they were in the process of setting up those green and red decorations - now I know why.

I also make a return visit to the Santuario della Consolata located at Piazza Consolata. This church sits opposite Al Bicerin.

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The Consolata was designed by Guarini in 1678 and replaced an earlier church of Sant' Andrea whose ruins are seen near by. The church's presbytery was designed by Juvarra in 1729 and the neo-classical facade is from 1860.

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A Romanesque bell tower stands next to the church.

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It's as I'm returning home that my day gets quite interesting. It seems that some kind of protest was going on and to put it mildly by the police presence this wasn't an ordinary march. Why this had a particular interest to me was that it seemed that the police lines where drawn at Piazza Savoia, right where by b&b was in fact My b&b was on the protesters side of the line.

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It was interestingly to see how plain clothes police were just appearing from the crowds and donning protective gear to enforce the line. This was quite a tense situation and I decided on a more prudent course of action since I couldn't get into my room - I headed back to Piazza Consolata and the safety of one of it's restaurants.

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Too early for dinner but not for aperitivo.

A fishy selection was offered -

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fresh frittata, whitebait, calamari to name a few ingredients, served with wonderfully crusty bread and a refreshing "mezzo" of white wine.

As I ate dinner, I could hear the protesters chanting getting nearer - obviously the impasse was broken without any violence.

Now, what exactly were they protesting about? By the amount of fresh graffiti marking the buildings on the way back to the b&b it seems they are against the TAV.

This particularly odious piece of graffiti placed on a church told me all I wanted to know about the "people" that were protesting
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If you'd like to see more photos click the link:
Egyptian Museum Set
Turin Set