As soon as I received the mail that Pierre and Robin were together again at The Deanery and doing degustation, my first reaction was to pick up the phone and make an immediate booking.
The Deanery is located at the end of a little lane off Flinders lane. The ground floor is home to the wine bar while the upper level houses the restaurant - large windows give you views of the wine storage area. It shares a similar problem to The Undertaker - the noise from lively patrons travels unimpeded into the dining area somewhat diminishing the dining environment.
We begin our meal with bread
we are offered a generous selection, pumpkin & saffron, mixed grain, sage & pancetta
First Course:
Minestrone Soup
This comes to the table without the broth. At the centre of the plate is a striped pillow stuffed with the finest dice of vegetables I've ever seen. As the broth is poured, the heat dissolves the pillow, leaving just the white strips behind.
Second Course:
scallops, herb risotto, violet
Those crisp fingers atop the dish are caramelised endive if my memory serves me right. The combination of violet foam, sweet scallops and creamy risotto is thoroughly enjoyable.
Third Course:
squab, chestnut, pear, rosemary
The texture of the squab was striking - it had an almost pâté like feel. I don't think you could actually improve it, it was sublime.
Fourth course:
mutton, parsnip, tonka beans, balsamic, salsify
When I think of mutton I think of something old and tough with an unpleasant odour. It's not something I would order but the reason I enjoy degustation so much is that it forces us to try things outside of our norm.
My thoughts on mutton have to be reconsidered - the aroma is gone, the meat is tender and I'd call it, delicately flavoured.
Fifth Course:
blackberry, eucalyptus, yoghurt
this is the type of dessert where you a take a bite and discover a new flavour or texture or temperature, there's always something going on.
There are soft jellies and chewable jellies, tiny violet flavour rocks, berry flavoured sponges and a hint of eucalyptus that cleans and clears.
Sixth Course:
coffee, treacle, basil, banana
To finish:
salted caramel, griottines, roasted almond
Since we've visited a Desert Degustation has been added (3 courses/$35pp or 5 courses/$50pp) and I'm sure we'll soon be returning.
The details:
The Deanery
13 Bligh Place
Melbourne
Phone: 9629 5599
Open:
Monday-Friday from 12pm
Saturday from 6pm
Sunday closed
web
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
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