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Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Venice - Day 5

The morning starts with a vaporetto trip to the Giudecca area of Venice - this is the name given to the island that lays just south of the main islands, separated only by the Giudecca Canal.

From the Giardini stop we hop on the number 62 that will take us to Sacca Fisola, the most western part of the island. Our aim is to finally visit all the churches in this area.


The waters do seem a bit higher than previous days but not high enough to cause any flooding.


As we're on the water we can get great overviews of the churches, this one is Il Redentore - The Redeemer



There is just a hint of the dome in that photo


but further away you can truly get a better idea of its layout and size.


There's a path way that spans the island right on the waters edge. Being on this side gives you great views of the main island


This is the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Rosario (Gesuati) - on the far left on the photo is the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione and the building between the two churches used to be the Monastery, it is now been converted into a type of religious bed and breakfast.

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Back on the Giudecca side, this is the Chiesa di Sant'Eufemia


It's the grey building with the tower if you are wondering.


That's a petrol station!


This rather grand structure was the Molino Stucky, built in 1895 as a flour mill. It closed in 1954 and remained a ruin until recently when it underwent a $337 million renovation to become the Hilton Molino Stucky - I believe the hotel just opened in June this year.


They have their own boat that will take you from the San Marco vaporetto stop to the hotel.


Not far from here is our stop - Sacca Fisola. This part of the island is basically low-end high rise apartments, rather dated and lacking any of the historic charms of the main island. The housing is rather non-descript 60's and 70's boxes.

It's also here that we prove that not all churches in Venice are attractive


I'd advise you to save your feet and just skip this place.

Because they are still working around the Hilton, the paths were closed so we had to take the long way round to get to our next church


Chiesa di Sant'Eufemia




The original church dedicated to the Aquileia Martys Eufemia, Dorotea, Tecla and Erasma dates from 865 it has subsequently been renovated and restored leading its current appearance which dates from the 1800's.


Further along the path is the grand Chiesa di Santissimo Redentore or Il Redentore as it is known.


As this is a Chorus church, no photos are allowed inside.


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This church was commissioned after the devastating plague of 1576 that swept through Venice and killed a third of the city's population. In 1576 the Doge had vowed to built a church dedicated to Christ the Redeemer (Il Redentore) for bringing an end to the plague.

The feast day for this celebration is the third Sunday in July where much like the celebration at Salute, a temporary bridge of boats spans the waters from Zattere for the faithful to cross and give thanks.

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Designed by Palladio and said to be his finest work, it was finished after his death in 1580 by Antonio da Ponte who remained true to the original plans.

On our way to our next stop we look back for another view of Il Redentore


This next church is the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Presentazione or Le Zittelle which I believe is now a conference centre



This church was also designed by Palladio.

From here it was time to board another vaporetto for a quick trip to visit San Giorgio Maggiore. The whole island is owned by the Cini Foundation.


The Basilica di San Giorgio Maggiore was also designed by Palladio and the complex of church and monastery dates from 1559-80.


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Taken from the large forecourt in front of the church - a view towards San Marco


You can take photos inside this church but there's something even better - for €3 you can ride the elevator to the top of the campanile!

Now, the weather wasn't the best but the views were still very enjoyable


In this photo to the right, you can get a glimpse of the Palladio designed cloisters in the monastery as well as seeing the narrow adjoining island of Giudecca.


Through the fog the domes of Le Zittelle and Il Redentore can be seen near the shore line.


A shot for scale - Across the waters is the Church of Santa Maria della Salute with its dome under scaffolding.





More views


San Marco's Campanile and the Doge's Palace


The large Church in the distance - Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo. To the right and near the front, the dome belongs to the Chiesa di San Zaccaria. On the foreshore path stands the Statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, sculpted by Ferrari in 1887.


In the centre, the leaning tower of San Giorgio dei Greci. On the foreshore and to the right, Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione.


On the far right, the elegant campanile of the Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna.



While we were here Paalo made a quip about the bells and much to our ears shock, they did indeed ring out to mark the hour. All fingers in ears needed to help deaden the sound. Why couldn't it have been 1 rather than 11!

Back downstairs we could enjoy the church itself



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The Choir Stalls


The Original Angel that tops the dome

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Time to hop on the number 82 vaporetto to take us to the San Basilio stop in Dorsoduro.


The first church we find is Chiesa dell'Angelo Raffaele

It is believed that this church dedicated to the Angel Raffaele originates from 640 though this rebuild is from the 17th century. The doorway sculpture depicts Tobias holding a fish and his guardian Angel Raffaele with a dog is by Sebastiano da Lugana.


Our next stop is the Chiesa di San Sebastiano



This is another church built in thanks for salvation from the plague, this time the plague of 1464.

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The church has a rather odd appearance, its façade wedged rather close to a canal bridge. This is due to a change in the orientation of the church in the 1800's.


the side of the church


the rear of the church with its Campanile - the Campanile was built in 1547 by Scarpagnino.


Founded in 1286 and rebuilt in the 16th Century is the Chiesa dei Carmini.



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Our next site took us to the Campo Santa Margherita


Unfortunately this is all that remains of the Campanile


It appears to have been partially demolished in the late 19th century.


The church of Santa Margherita was founded in 853 and its current form dates from 1687. It ceased operation in 1808 and is now part of the Venice University.

Another view of Campo Santa Margherita


This is the Campo San Barnaba where we find the the Chiesa di San Barnaba


The current church was designed by Lorenzo Boschetti and completed in 1776. The Campanile is from the 11th Century with alternations in the 14th and restoration work in 1882. The church is currently hosting an exhibition of Leonardo's Machines.

Near the Zattere stop, we find the Chiesa di San Trovaso



The view of the back of the church.

The Gesuati church isn't that far away.

Finally we're back on the main walkway and the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione


Built in 1524 it belongs to the complex of buildings of the Gesuati. It is now used as the Chapel for the Insituto Don Orione, as I mentioned early, which is a religious guest house.



The Chiesa di Santa Maria del Rosario (Gesuati) was built for the Dominicans between 1726-1735. As this is a Chorus Church, no photos are allowed inside.


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A quick pic of Chiesa di Sant'Agnese.


Time to cross the bridge at Accademia


with its view of Salute Church.


The Chiesa di Santo Stefano was founded in 1294 while this structure dates from the 15th Century.



Our last stop before lunch is the Chiesa di San Maurizio


you can see the Campanile of Santo Stefano in the background.

For lunch we've stopped at a restaurant that we had spotted last night during the procession as it was offering Castradina.

For our first course:


Paalo has the Carpaccio - rather thick slices of tender beef make up the carpaccio. It makes a change for the versions back home that are a slice of coin sized meat, pounded until it is the size of a plate. It's quite a hearty dish topped with large shards of
Parmigiano-Reggiano and do-it-yourself drizzle of olive oil

I have the Baccalà Mantecato which was just incredible - after having eaten various versions of this dish so far, this is how it really should be. It is served on just grilled slices of white polenta.

For mains


Paalo has the Castradina - another really generous portion full of large chunks of tender lamb. A highlight of the trip.


I have the Veal Scallopini with Porcini Mushrooms - this is real veal and the combination is a classic.

For dessert we stick with Venetian fare


and we both order the mustard fruits with mascarpone and venetian biscuits (Baicoli).

Extremely satisfied and hope renewed in the fate of Venetian restaurants we continue on our journey.

We come upon the Chiesa di San Moise (St Moses) - the original church dates from 7th century with a replacement in the 10th. The Campanile is from the 14th Century.



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Statues of the Four Virtuies



Reconstructed in the 17th century, the bust of Vincenzo Fini (the Fini family paid for the reconstruction) sits atop the obelisk on the façade.

Our next stop is quite close by and another Baroque church, Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio (also known as Santa Maria Zobenigo)



This structure dates from the 17th century, the façade designed by Giuseppe Sardi is a testament to the Barbaro family that paid for it.



The main statue is of Antonio Barbaro


but the facade also includes statues of his four brothers


and at the base of the structure


show the cities of Antonio Barbaro's military successes.

This is also a Chorus Church so no photos are allowed inside.

Our final act today is to make another pilgrimiage to Salute and a light a candle. Even the locals are amazed at just how many people are here at the moment. It takes a while to get into the church itself but once inside we can understand why


I leave Paalo to brave the crowd and deliver our candle



In due time the offered candle is taken and lit by the attendants - it's a constant thing. They let them burn for a little while and then take them away. All this time prayers are being offered in thanks.


Though crowded it is quite an orderly event - and we count ourselves very fortunate to have been able to participate.


One of the other parts of this festival is food - and situated near the church, stalls have been set up offering all sorts of sweet treats


It's a real struggle here with wall to wall people. We had wanted to try the traditional fried donut but it proves just impossible so we decide to call it a night. After all we are leaving tomorrow and do need to pack.

1 comment:

  1. Anonymous05:39

    What wonderful photos you took! I was just in Venice, and seeing these pics made me want to return even sooner. Isn't it sad, though, that many of the churches are no longer functioning as churches and have been given over to lesser endeavors.


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